by Martín Bonfil Olivera
Published on Milenio Diario, November 26,  2008
 Its true: trips make you wiser . Last week I had the opportunity of going to Oaxaca. I  found a very prosperous and modern city, with better urban and  touristic infrastructure than before, and that nevertheless has not lost its traditional flavor. Luckily, it's still humane, livable city. Also, a city that has not managed to overcome the great  problems that affect one of our country's poorest states, where there's a lot of  inequality.
Its true: trips make you wiser . Last week I had the opportunity of going to Oaxaca. I  found a very prosperous and modern city, with better urban and  touristic infrastructure than before, and that nevertheless has not lost its traditional flavor. Luckily, it's still humane, livable city. Also, a city that has not managed to overcome the great  problems that affect one of our country's poorest states, where there's a lot of  inequality.
It was also a trip  to my roots, because I was invited to give a science talk in the Colegio de Estudios Científicos y  Tecnológicos (College of Scientific and Technological Studies) in Etla  valley, where my great-great-grandfather, doctor Mariano  Olivera, was born in 1824.
The pleasure of  the visit increased because on a Oaxaca bookstore I was lucky to find a book that I  had been looking for for some time ago: Oaxaca Journal  (National  Geographic, 2000) by Oliver Sacks, the famous  writer and neurologist, author of the master piece The man who mistook his wife for a hat and other books such as Awakenings  (which in 1990 was turned into a movie starring Robert de Niro and  Robin Williams), An anthropologist on Mars or Uncle Tungsten: memories of a chemical boyhood. All of them highly recommended.
It turns out that  Sacks visited Oaxaca in 2000 as part of a trip organized by the American Fern  Society, a group of enthusiasts for this plants (technically known as pteridophytes)  of which he is a member.
Sacks dedicates  his book to the enthusiasts —of the rocks, birds, astronomy— and his reading  confirms why these groups of lovers —amateurs— are still important, not only  because of the scientific contributions that they constantly make, but also  because they preserve and transmit the joy of directly observing nature. Apart  from his delicious prose, Sacks book offers the view of a foreign person in a  culture he did not know and that he feels very different from his ("a new  world", he writes).
He finds meals with  grasshoppers and worms, markets, traditions, poverty and diseases, ancient  civilization ruins and colonial convents, the ancient árbol del Tule (Tule  tree), the old method for obtaining colorant from the cochineal insect… and  of course, a lot of ferns.
A neurologist and  writer, and fern enthusiast, describes the culture of 
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